As usual, you want to remove all the debris in the area and clean it up as much as possible -- Smooth out any carpetting, remove any plastic panels if you plan on taking them out.

In this project, the panel was removed. Also prepare the surrounding area, because you will make the glass larger than it has to be, and trim away the excess.

Place your drivers roughly where you think they will sit -- This will give you a basic idea of how much glass you need to lay down. You can see here, my woofer will go to about the edge of the dead pedal, I will glass about 3" beyond that, then trim later.

Cover the entier work area with masking tape (and foil if being extra cautious). If you have a bunch of wires there (like I did), do not tape tightly conforming to the wires, rather make a loose flowing structure -- It'll be easier to glass, and much easier to fit in once you put the kickpanel in place.

Covered with foil

Any surrounding areas should be covered with some kinda plastic or tarp -- Here i used garbage bags.

This is right after the first coat (2 layers) has been laid down. Glass was applied the same was as described in the earlier tutorials. Go grab a beer and chill.

The wind kept blowing and I was afraid of the door shutting, and getting resin all over it -- so don't forget to jam it open somehow. If you are doing tweeter pods and its windy, might be a good idea to not leave the window wide open -- Leaves and dirt will stick to the resin easily.

After it has dried, removed the base coat, as well as the tape and foil. Add extra layers of glass if this base is not strong enough. Then put the peice back in and trace the edges where you need to cut.

Same panel, trimmed this time.

While that glass was drying, it would be a good idea to make mouting rings. These rings are made with the procedure described in the MDF Ring section. Here, 1/2" MDF was used all around.

Next you need to mount your rings. As far as proper aiming, I simply used a laser pointer and aimed the center of the tweeter at a spot on the opposing window; repeated for both sides. For the woofer I simply had it fire straight across. Hot glue the rings into position, make sure they are sturdy, covering in fabric is next.

Once the hot glue has dried, double check the clearance of the woofer/tweeter and make sure it will actually fit.

Now you are going to wrap the kickpanel in fabric. In this previous example, when fleece was wrapped around the enclosure it was pretty straight foward--it is a bit different in this case because the rings may be indented in reference to the edges of the glassed mold -- Meaning if you wrapped fleece around the whole thing, the tweeter hole, and possibly the woofer hole wouldnt be seen -- So you have to wrap a little differently. Using hot glue, apply in sections of the ring some glue, and place the fleece on it -- wait until it dries, stretch it, and apply a little more---keep working until the entire ring is glued.. You can do either ring first, woofer or tweeter, but it might be easier if you do the smaller one first. After the fleece is attached to the mounting rings, then stretch around the edges of the mold and glue them

Wrap around the backside, attach and cut excess.

This is how the front looks -- notice how the fabric was pulled in such a way that the tweeter hole is still accessible. Test fit the drivers.

Apply loads of that goopy shit all over those bastards. Make pretend its your girlfriend's face and go to town. Let dry.

After the fleece has dried, apply fiberglass and trim the speaker edges.

Use a coarse grit sandpaper and sand down as much as possible.

Apply body filler. Any curves or creases can be filled with bondo. Let it dry then sand again with ~120-200 grit.

After sanding the body filler down. Only little pinholes are left, and these can be filled with spotting / glazing putty.

This is the kick panel primed -- This is as far as this project went, I did not like the sound of these kicks (I guess I aimed them wrong, and the sound stage was way to low for my liking, So I abandoned the project).